mungbean in india
 

…and Rain

Humble beginnings



OK so my last post was titled “A place in the sun” and I ended by talking about the Monsoon. I might’ve known that would bring the rain…

It’s 9pm, pitch black, and it’s bouncing down just now — a proper tropical downpour. Apart from a few drops once in January, this is the first time it’s rained since I arrived over 2 months ago. Not only is it throwing it down, but the electricity went off around 7.30 so the streets are really dark, other than the car headlights, and a bit of light coming from houses with backup power.

I myself am running on my UPS just now… it has a big lead-acid battery, about twice the size of a typical car battery, and I was told it will last 8 hours, but we’ll see. Power-cuts are commonplace here, but the longest I’ve seen so far has been an hour.

[ Edit: Just after posting this the UPS battery died, almost exactly 2 hours… Power finally came back on at 5:45am, so that was a pretty long outage. ]

The rain will be a relief to my plants. Just yesterday I visited a real, live garden centre and bought some plants, seeds and pots so I can get started on establishing a garden or two in my outside space. I’ve also been out stalking the neighbourghood after dark with a bag and a pair of scissors, to see what I can collect in the way of cuttings. I have a lot of space to use, so I’m keen to establish as much as I can really quickly.

I feel typically British for even mentioning the weather! But of course back in the UK the weather is unpredictable, coming off the Atlantic ocean, and so it’s the ideal daily topic for chat. I found it quite strange to have very uniform weather here in Bangalore — up until about 3 days ago it’s been around 30 degrees and sunny all day every day, except for the occasional morning mist which anyway burned off quite quickly.

We have another 3 months before the monsoon arrives, so I’m curious to see what the weather’s like between now and then. One thing’s for certain — the seasons I’ve known all my life don’t exist here.

“Officially”, the seasons are as follows, although in a country the size of India there’s a wide range of different climates.

  • Winter (Dec – early April)
  • Summer / pre-monsoon (April – June)
  • Monsoon (June – Sept)
  • Post-monsoon / Returning Monsoon (Oct – Dec)

Given that I’m planting seeds just now and taking cuttings, I find it quite difficult to know whether the timing is right or not. But it’s February and to me it feels like the right time to be starting things off.


A Place in the Sun

the new pad


So the lease on the new apartment is signed, and I have keys!

Unfortunately since it’s unfurnished — or what they call here “semi-furnished” (?) — I can’t move in properly until the bed and mattress that I bought this weekend have been delivered. Hopefully within a day or two.

After 2 months of living in a hotel room, I am more than ready to get a place of my own! Especially since the hotel is next to a building site, and Indian construction workers work mighty hard — I was woken at 7am today (Sunday) by them banging away.

The new place is really big (3 bedrooms), and actually way above my original budget… I’m not entirely sure that I’m not making a mistake. But I’ve spent the last 5 years living in small boxy flats with no private outdoor space, and this new place has 3 or 4 balconies and a private roof terrace which I’m itching to turn into a garden.

The neighbourhood is great too — relatively quiet and leafy with a few small parks, and good local shops. And most important of all, I can walk home from work in about 35 minutes. There’s even a chance I might even be able to resurrect my running regime, although I’ll have to go out just after dawn when the air pollution’s at its lowest.

So… another big entry on the to-do list is ticked off. Next up is buying furniture and I’m bored of that already, after spending my entire weekend in department stores. I’m half tempted just to buy garden furniture and live outside… until I remember the mosquitoes, and the fact that the monsoon will arrive in 3 months.


So Far, So Good

street sofa

Amazingly, I’ve been in Bangalore for 7 weeks now. Time is flying by, and we’re already half way through the teaching term at college.

It’s tempting to keep counting days and weeks, in a Robinson Crusoe kind of way, but it’s more interesting to reflect on the on-going, qualitative, psyschological changes that I’ve noticed.

After about a month, I was on my way to work and suddenly realised that things felt “normal”. There’s something I once read about it taking 21 days to form a new habit, and here I finally was with a routine. Although we often reject routine because we can feel oppressed by it, you can certainly appreciate its value when you’re in a totally new place and new culture. Initially I’d had to think about every single decision I was making throughout the day, and it’s exhausting – What time to get up in the morning? How to get to work? How long would it take? Where will I eat? What should I eat? Finally getting a bit of regular structure back into my life certainly made me feel less lost.

Also around the 4-week mark I had my first run-in with the local microbes — I had Delhi Belly for 48 hours, and took a day off work sick. Taking it easy for a day and drinking plenty of water along with the usual medication had me up and about again. Friends have told me I did well to last 4 weeks, but then again I’d been really cautious with what I’d been eating. I think the salad in a restaurant in Ahmedabad airport was to blame.

Then came a frenzied period of house-hunting. A chaotic 10 days or so of semi-intelligible phone calls with a variety of Real Estate Agents, and whizzing around town on the back of their scooter or motorbike to view various properties to rent. Most of them were pretty grim until I hiked up the budget significantly. An interesting experience though, and a good way to see where and how people live. And riding around the city on a 2-wheeler was fun, even if my bald head did get badly sunburned when I forgot to take my hat with me.

Anyway, fingers crossed, I now have an apartment lined up. I still need to work out how on earth I’m going to transfer the deposit (10 months rent!) from the UK to an account here, since I only have a toy bank account at present. But all being well, I should be able to move in within a week or two. I’m really looking forward to that… particularly having a bit of outdoor space in which to enjoy the weather, which has been great pretty much non-stop since I arrived.

So up to now, so far so good. I feel like I’m “getting the hang” of India to an extent, I’m getting to know my way around Bangalore, and everything is a bit more familiar and understandable.

I’m even getting used to dealing with the really in-your-face beggars, although I still find it deeply shocking and disturbing to see small children with matted, dusty hair literally running through rush-hour traffic to pan-handle the rickshaw passengers while they wait at traffic lights.

There’s certainly a down-side to this new familiarity. The first few weeks were full of wonder and excitement… so many new and unexpected sights and sounds, which made every day thrilling. It felt a bit like being on holiday. Now I don’t really look twice when I see goats or cows wandering through city traffic, or a family of four all riding on the same scooter.

Of course I’m not a holiday-maker, I’m here to work, for 2 years at least. So there’s also the slowly-dawning realisation that I am now an expat. And I’m not going home.

At least, not for 1 year, 10 months and 14 days.


Bandh

There was a state-wide Bandh in Karnataka today — a kind of protest, curfew and general strike, which meant that shops, restaurants and pretty much everywhere was closed all day.

My fellow lecturers and I had planned to go and see the degree show at Srishti, but that was closed too. So we ended up whiling away the day at a swanky hotel, eating a long slow buffet lunch out on the terrace. It was pretty full, presumably because it was one of the few places open.

Later in the evening on the way home I realised how quiet the city was… some streets were almost empty of traffic, and they felt darker than usual. Possibly due to so many shops having the shutters down.

It turns out the Bandh was called by the BJP, the ruling political party in Karnataka, in protest at the prosecution of a minister over corruption — a huge issue in India, and very much on the world’s radar since last year’s Commonwealth Games in Delhi.

A strange atmosphere on the streets tonight… very quiet with a kind of subdued tension. All the more noticeable because usually this place feels very vibrant and lively, as well as being busy and noisy.

I guess the worry of the protests getting out of hand was very present in people’s minds. The Times of India’s report is telling:

Barring minor incidents of stone-pelting and arson [the Bandh] passed off peacefully today…

Apparently 29 buses were torched across the state, 2 of them in Bangalore, and 500 people were taken into custody. Here’s hoping any future Bandhs are equally “peaceful”.


Language

I bought a kurta recently, and yesterday I took it to a tailor’s shop to be altered.

Two guys were working at treadle sewing machines in their bare feet. There was only just room in the tiny shop for them to fit in, but there were racks of clothes hanging up on the back wall. Obviously, business is good. I paid my Rs 60 and told them I’d come back the next day.

When I went back to collect the kurta at lunchtime today, the older guy who obviously owns the shop told me “not ready”. Yesterday he’d wanted me to come back in an hour to collect it. I’m learning that there’s a very relaxed approach to timing here.

Back again at 6pm, it still wasn’t finished. The older guy told the younger one to get on with it, and I was told to sit down while it was done. The older guy wanted to chat to me, but was struggling with English. I made out “country” so I told him “UK”. Then a bunch of stuff I couldn’t understand, except it was a question and included “Hindi”. I guessed he was asking me if I spoke Hindi.

I tried to explain to him in English that I’ve only been here 3 weeks, and wanted to add that yes I have a book and CD that I’d started before I left home, and that yes I would love to learn Hindi and I’ve tracked down a couple of places nearby that run classes…

But before I could remember anything vaguely relevant in Hindi he said “Language – Problem”. And again “Language – Problem”.

All I could manage was “ha” (yes). If my brain had been in gear I could’ve told him my name and what I was doing here. But he still clocked my response, and nearly smiled.

This is the first time I’ve run into anyone who expected or wanted me to speak Hindi and I was quite surprised, as Kannada is the main language here, and most signage is in English and Kannada with very little Hindi around.

I’m looking forward to starting the language classes even more now that I know I might have a use for it locally.


Happy New Year

Happy Newr Year 2011



Best wishes for 2011, from Bangalore.




Getting There

Obligatory 'Bull in Traffic' shot


OK… I’m about a week and a half in now, and I think the initial shock and fatigue have mostly worn off.

All the things I’d been expecting to find seem to be true, and then some… the noisy and chaotic traffic, the warmth of the people, the in-your-face poverty, the amazing food, the colours and the smells and the intensity. Actually the traffic is way worse than I’d expected — but more on this later.

Bit of a cliché perhaps, but it does seem like it’s all about contrasts and extremes.

I’ve also been settling in to my new teaching job, fortunately arriving just as the students started their term break, so there’s been time to get to know staff and procedures, as well as sorting out my residency permit, bank account and so on.

Top of my To-Do list now is finding accommodation.

Onwards and upwards.


Here, Now.

So I arrived safe and sound in Bangalore 4 days ago. My first time in India.

Since then so much has passed through my brain (not to mention my nose and lungs) that I’ve felt incapable of blogging about any of it. It’s pretty overwhelming.

In the meantime, I’ve added some fairly long comments to my flickr pics as I upload them… I need to work out a system for doing this and blogging at the same time.

I just started my new job today. All seems good, with a small team of really friendly people and a good space to work in. But I’ve arrived just as most of the other lecturers are leaving for their xmas break.


Transit

I’m now in transit. Currently sitting in my parents’ house in Wales, where we’ve just had an early Christmas get-together. I left Edinburgh on Monday and fly to Bangalore on Thursday.

The past couple of weeks have been a bit of a rollercoaster-ride… lots of finishing off to do, people to see, drinks to drink, and the occasional panic attack and serious second thoughts.

Clearing out my flat turned out to be way, way harder than I thought it would be. At some point several weeks ago I made the decision to cancel the storage unit I had booked back in October. Rather than spending 1400 pounds on storing all my stuff for 2 years, it seemed sensible to get rid of everything and then buy things later if I really needed them. I blithely announced to the world that I would be reducing my possessions down to a single suitcase. I sold loads of stuff on eBay, had a stall on a flea market, and gave away all my furniture to friends.

And then when I started to clear out in earnest, only 3-4 days ago, I started discovering all kinds of non-replaceable stuff. Things I’d designed and built at college. Obscure gadgets and tools. CDs and demos by friends and things I’d done myself. Important documents. A couple of boxes of old photos. Loads of old hard drives with maybe-interesting work and stuff on them. Of course, hard drives can be archived, photos can be scanned and CDs can be ripped, but all of this involves making decisions and taking the time to do it, and I didn’t have enough time… which as I discovered is a great way to induce blind panic.

In the end a lot of stuff went in the bin or the recycling, and van-owning friends came to my rescue in helping me donate most of what was left to charity shops. Isi, Oli and Marcus were absolute life-savers — I can’t thank you enough guys!

When I moved into that flat over 2 years ago, I hired a guy with a van to help me move, and the van was totally full. A whole transit van-load, and I decided that somehow I could whittle that down to a large suitcase. In a few days. Big mistake. Lesson learned.

Now I’m out the other side and the panic has subsided, with just my aching limbs to remind me of the physical and emotional intensity of the weekend. I’m glad that there are bits of my life spread all over Edinburgh, because the physical connections somehow cement the emotional ties, or at least act as a marker for them. I’ve met some amazing people and made some very dear friends over the past 12 years, and leaving the place has been really really hard. Still, I feel like I haven’t really left yet, because I haven’t arrived at my destination. Still in transit.


Today I bought a ticket…

Today I bought a plane ticket to Bangalore, India.

One way.

India Map


This is the culmination of several months of negotiating and planning and phone calls and form-filling… finally leading to the offer of a new job teaching at a college in Bangalore. Last week I was finally granted my employment visa, and this morning I bought the plane ticket.  Of course, this is only the end of the beginning – I actually start work on 20th December.

Reality is now starting to kick in. After this prospect being way in the future for what seems like ages, it’s now only 6 weeks away. I’m currently having a huge clear-out in my flat, selling stuff on eBay, and I’ll be having a stall in a Flea Market on Saturday.  Feels good to be getting rid of lots of stuff — and raising a bit of cash towards relocation expenses — but it also feels somehow… terminal.

I need time for this to sink in.